In reef systems, even a minor level of nitrate can cause damage as well as death to delicate corals, anemones, and other invertebrates, as well as some crustaceans. Since it doesn’t have any roots, this is easy to do by just pulling apart the strings and tossing it in the garbage. A big disclaimer that is appropriate for this entire article (a version of a similar disclaimer is also on the LiveAquaria website) is that what I’ve listed above are general reef tank parameters. What do you think–are there any saltwater parameters more important than these 9? I'd like to take a poll on what your last measured nitrate level is in your reef tank. Balancing Nitrate (NO3) and Phosphate (PO4) in your reef aquarium There are some fine points that must be understood about balancing nitrate and phosphate in a reef aquarium. High-quality reef tank water starts by using a high-quality reef aquarium salt mix. Nitrate itself is not particularly toxic at the levels usually found in aquaria, at least as is so far known in the scientific literature. The ideal alkalinity for a reef tank is 8-12 dkh. An aquarium heater is probably required for just about any aquarium because most of us live in houses where the daily temperature is lower than the ideal values listed below. The 9 MOST IMPORTANT Reef Tank Parameters are:eval(ez_write_tag([[728,90],'saltwateraquariumblog_com-box-3','ezslot_15',125,'0','0'])); Let’s dive a little deeper into each individual water parameter as well as the value considered to be ideal for a reef tank: Alkalinity is a complex concept/thing to describe because it pretty much only has scientific explanations. Some of these algaes even compete for light with our corlas by releasing compounds that can sting our corals, like other corals can sometimes do. If you go too quick then you could fuel an outbreak of problematic algae. Determining the ideal level of phosphates for a reef tank is a bit of a tricky subject. Unfortunately testing for nitrates still remains a royal pain. If the goal is to increase the nitrates in the reef tank then it’s best to do it as safely as possible. The manufacturer says AZ-NO3 “works entirely by aerobic cellular respiration on the target nitrate molecule, which is then removed by the protein skimmer.” Another option is Red Sea NO3:PO4-X Nitrate & Phosphate Reducer. 03 of 10. It is up to you to research the husbandry needs of the animals you want to keep to be sure you know if their needs differ from the standard water parameters. Since it fuels problem algae growth, you want to keep it low and may be tempted to keep it at or near zero. The basic design is the same as the DIY model with a couple of exceptions. If you see any level other than zero, while you’re testing your water, it is a symptom that either your biological filter has crashed, or that it just can’t keep up with some large source of ammonia (like from a dead fish). That’s a pretty broad range. The protein skimmer then removes these nitrate laden bacteria from the reef system in the skimmate collection cup. For alkalinity, phosphate, and calcium, I have generally used individual test kitseval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'saltwateraquariumblog_com-sky-3','ezslot_34',145,'0','0'])); For equipment, I now use this Refractometer to measure the salinity of my reef tank, although you could certainly use a swing-arm hydrometer, like the one shown in the image above. Ideal SPS Reef Tank Parameters. As another one of the most important reef tank parameters, the ideal ammonia level for a reef aquarium is ~0 ppm. The later being a recurring cost that depends on the size of your tank to maintain. Choose the best way to purify the waters and then add the reef salt. More information can be found here. Ammonia occurs naturally, as a byproduct of some sort of organic waste breaking down in your tank. No sense measuring something you don’t intend to act upon.eval(ez_write_tag([[728,90],'saltwateraquariumblog_com-small-square-1','ezslot_38',165,'0','0'])); Iodine, as a trace element does appear to be important to several macroalgae, shrimp and coral species, but because natural levels are so low (0.06 ppm), it is very difficult to test and maintain these levels with standard test kits. The problem is that ammonia isa toxic waste in your aquarium. The ideal range you want to aim for is: ~8.1-8.4 for a healthy saltwater aquarium. If you’re already an advanced aquarist, then, you may want to dig a little deeper there. Nitrite is an intermediate by-product produced by your bacterial filter as part of the nitrogen cycle. At ReefNation, we try to opt for the easiest ways to keep our tanks happy and nitrate removal is no exception. In a perfect world, nitrates should be kept between 5-10 ppm or lower. While the absolute pH is important, it is perhaps even more important to ensure that the pH remains stable. It is a nice item to have if you own a reef tank. Skip to Content . Observational and sometimes speculative information like that is what makes it challenging as a hobbyist, sometimes, to know what to focus on and avoid doing more harm than good, in the process of trying to create the ideal living conditions. Check out a full dosing regimen discussed here. The Redfield ratio implies that coral and bacteria consume significantly more … But until you reach an advanced level of sophistication or if you’re otherwise experiencing problems with your water quality and need to rule it out as part of the problem, you may be able to let sleeping magnesium lie and focus on the 9 most important water parameters. Other Sources of Nitrate In reality, the concept is pretty genius. My nitrates are at 1.7ppm , my phosphate was at 2ppm but since buying the phosban reactor now they are at 0.02. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. You need to test your aquarium water to be sure it is in a healthy and suitable range. For you metric folk, this is the same as mg/L (milligrams per liter). Just so you know, I do earn a tiny commission if you purchase anything on Amazon after visiting through one of those links. Removing that nitrate heavy bacteria from the tank is then then task at hand. Saltwater tanks, on the other hand, need a lower level. One such supplement is AZ-NO3 Nitrate Eliminator. I still aim to keep my nitrates at around 5-10 ppm and my phosphates at 0.03 ppm. Connect with me on Facebook, Pinterest (yes, I’m starting to really enjoy it over there) and Twitter, To continue learning about this topic, check out these two videos, A Beginners Guide to Reef Tank Water Parameters. Levels of nitrates between 40-80 (ppm) is ideal for plant growth and health and acceptable for healthy fish too. The problem is that as your aquarium gets more crowded and mature, it will generate more nitrate and those levels will climb.eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'saltwateraquariumblog_com-mobile-leaderboard-2','ezslot_24',163,'0','0'])); Small amounts of nitrogen in the nitrates can be absorbed by certain soft corals or macroalgae, but it can also act as a sort of fertilizer, boosting problem algae growth–which nobody wants. Alkalinity: (8.2 dKh) vs. growth (12 dKh) Calcium: color (430 ppm), Growth (465 ppm) Magnesium: color (1310 ppm), Growth (1390 ppm) Nitrates: Less than 5 ppm* Phosphates: Less than 0.03 ppm* Salinity. The seventh most important reef tank water parameter to monitor is phosphate.eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'saltwateraquariumblog_com-square-1','ezslot_41',114,'0','0'])); Phosphate occurs naturally on reefs and is present at a level of ~0.13 ppm, but phosphates in a saltwater aquarium can be a big-time problem-maker in your tank, even at natural levels. Because of that, I recommend you keep levels below 0.2 ppm if possible.<0.2 ppm. Written by Albert B. Ulrich III. In your filter, bacteria convert toxic ammonia, as a first step, into less toxic nitrite, before the second group of bacteria converts the nitrite to nitrate.eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'saltwateraquariumblog_com-portrait-1','ezslot_29',128,'0','0'])); For a very brief period of time (a few days, max), while you are cycling your tank, you will look for the presence of nitrites in your tank, as evidence that naturally occurring, beneficial bacteria have colonized your tank. Another popular way to achieve carbon dosing is with bio pellets. As long as the temperature of your saltwater aquarium is in this range, keeping the temperature consistent (avoiding fluctuation) becomes more important than the actual value itself. Naturally, the next question is, what is the ideal range for phosphates in a reef tank? Free downloadable reef tank parameters chart. If you have detectable levels of ammonia in your tank, it means your aquarium is too new (has not fully cycled yet) or there is a problem with your biological filter. Pick the method that best fits your budget and attention span and stick to it. A good pH to aim for is between 8.2 and 8.4. It turns out that these devices actually capitalize on one of the same denitrification methods that exists in nature, namely anaerobic bacteria that usually live deep in sand beds. The aquarium heater raises the water temperature and helps keep it from falling below that level. Nitrate reactors are a bit of an anomaly when it comes to reefkeeping equipment. This then gives our corals the sugars they need to grow and create skeletons. We have taken the idea of a refugium and fashioned it with Chaetomorpha a brillo like algae that grows in a cork screw shape and doesn’t have any roots. Then, the second group of helpful bacteria will convert that nitrite into nitrate.eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'saltwateraquariumblog_com-small-square-2','ezslot_39',146,'0','0']));eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'saltwateraquariumblog_com-small-square-2','ezslot_40',146,'0','1'])); If you choose to add macroalgae to your sump or even to the display tank itself, the macro will actually pull phosphates, silicates, and nitrates out of the water as well. And plan for my added critters in a few months. Also, the costly sulfur and carbonate media must periodically be replaced. Other than that, you want your nitrites to remain as close to zero as possible. If you want to keep reading and learn some more about the most important reef tank aquarium water parameters, or other topics related to keeping a successful saltwater tank, check out the links below to some helpful articles: This article about the most important reef tank parameters was inspired by a short blurb in an old Doctors Foster and Smith catalog, titled “Ideal Marine Aquarium Water Parameters: Key to Continued Inhabitant Health”. display: none !important; The ninth most important reef tank water parameter is temperature. The water from your tap is high in nitrates and phosphates and also contains further invisible things that is damaging for your tank’s inhabitants. I have to admit, i’ve seen them in reefkeeping catalogs or on websites for years, but I’ve never put much thought into what makes them work. Additionally, these next 3 parameters are not as practical to measure or moderate through supplementation and water changes as the major items in the top 9. If your tank has fully cycled, there should be no detectable levels of ammonia. FACT: There are a number of methods that can be used to reduce or even prevent nitrate buildup without performing a water change. I just let those words wash over me for a moment and pictured a hotly debated strontium controversy between two uber fish geeks. Nitrates below 80 (ppm) poses no real problems for the fish. The article was short, to the point, and communicated a lot of information in a single catalog page. Ideal parameters, Magnesium 1250- 1350 ppm, Calcium 350 – 450ppm, Alkalinity 8- 12 dKH These elements help corals build their calcium skeletons, and when these numbers are in check you should have a happy healthy tank. Protein skimmer for marines and reef setups; Plants; Set your heater to around 82° Fahrenheit, start the filter pump, and begin “feeding” the tank with fish flakes. So, let’s just cut to the chase. Dosing them is often problematic and unnecessary, and testing for trace elements can be expensive. For the advanced reefer, it can play a major role in creating some of the problems advanced reefers face–however, for the vast majority of us, this tremendously important ion is naturally present in such large amounts that it renders it as important, but probably not worth worrying about on an ongoing basis. For my softy tank my nitrates stay at about 15, and I think they are doing very well. Check out this article for a review of the, If water quality isn’t your problem, but you have some sort of pest, parasite or infection, you may need to move your sick animals to a hospital tank and treat with an aquarium medication, instead. The deep sand bed creates a low-oxygen environment at the bottom of the bed where the third type of beneficial bacteria can grow. Your ideal nitrate levels will depend on what type of tank you have, though. well, then I’m a bit jealous and hope you’ll invite me over to hang out very soon. Some protein skimmers are better than others and this is what determines how efficiently carbon dosing will work for your system. Reefing education and supplies since 2007. For removal, all you simply need to do is direct the exit tube of the reactor right into your protein skimmer. Fixed now. The thought here is that the acidic nitrate free water from the sulphur chamber will pass through this second chamber here and be buffered back to a higher pH before it is returned to the tank. Hopefully, with this piece, I managed to cover not just what the ideal reef tank water parameters are, but also which of the reef tank parameters are most important. The cost of this method can vary depending on whether you are using your favorite cheap vodka, or a reactor holding media pellets. Interestingly, both of these processes are the basis for the most popular ways we remove nitrates in our reef tanks. Testing for them has in short been a pain and with all the new reef technology that’s come out lately, testing for nitrates is only starting to get some marginal love. The fastest, most natural and lowest-tech way to remove nitrates from your reef tank is to perform a partial water change. You can speed up the process by seeding the tank with a small quantity of substrate, filter media, decorations, etc. Because those levels are so low, because testing would be so complex and because the benefits of maintaining that precisely are unknown while the risks of adding too much (toxicity) are quite known, it is probably best to resist the urge to monitor and adjust your iodine levels manually. The acceptable range of nitrate for reef tanks is 0.25 ppm, but not more than 5 ppm. In a properly cycled aquarium, bacteria convert nitrogen waste (often in the form of ammonia) into nitrite and then other bacteria turn that nitrite into nitrate. If your tank has fully cycled, there should be no detectable levels of ammonia. You’ll find recommendations ranging from 0.02 to 0.05 ppm, but we’ve all seen real-life reef tanks thriving at levels much higher than this at 0.1 ppm or more. The good news is that a healthy, fully-functioning biological filter protects your tank by removing ammonia from your water. Some said Nitrates should be >2ppm or the clam will suffer. Reef tank: < 1ppm. If you don’t live in an area with a steady tropical temperature like that, then you will need equipment to keep the aquarium temperature in the right zone. ReefNation.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Thanks for checking out this article about the most important reef tank parameters. FishLab Fact: The measure for nitrates is ppm (parts per million). Calcium is an extremely important element in a reef tank and is essential for coral health, because, while they don’t have bones, they do have bony skeletons made from calcium, and they get that calcium from the seawater. The only downside to this device is that as the water comes out, it will be fairly acidic due to the chemical reactions that take place inside the reaction chamber. by Justin Hester | Jul 5, 2013 | Aquariums, Featured, Latest News, Uncategorized. They even offer a new style of pellet which is larger and thus less prone to clogging. It is entirely possible that specific individual species you acquire for your own tank may come from an environment that differs from these generalities and may, therefore, require specific care. I've always struggled with nitrates in my reef tank when fish are present. 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